The Stage and the School

Chapter 13: Makeup

Overview

Makeup is a useful tool for the actor. The bigger the auditorium or the more dramatic the production lighting, the more makeup is required. However, remember that too little is often better than too much.

Straight makeup requires six steps: applying the foundation, or making the face into a blank mask; applying shadows and highlights—chiaroscuro—to bring out, change, or correct features; applying rouge and lipstick; applying eye and eyebrow makeup; powdering; and applying any finishing touches.

Of all the makeup problems encountered by high school actors, the most difficult to handle effectively is aging. Remember that the key to all makeup is bone structure. There are two basic methods for applying wrinkles. The first assumes you have already applied the highlights and shadows. You then mark the wrinkles in the foundation by raising the brows, squinting the eyes, smiling, and pulling the chin in. The second method requires you to draw the wrinkles before applying the foundation.

Hair is an integral part of both makeup and costume. Wigs, hairpieces, and falls should be fitted properly. For example, a bald wig must fit perfectly, and the blenders, or the edges of the wig where it meets the forehead and neck, must be cleverly concealed by makeup.

Prosthetics and nose putty are two materials, among many, that actors use to alter facial features. Prosthetics are best made on a facial mask, or a plaster casting of the entire face including the closed eyes. You can then shape the desired prosthetic piece in clay on the facial mask. Then pour liquid latex into the clay mold and allow it to set. The latex piece is removed from the mold and is then ready to be attached to the face.